Yeah, but which wires go where :O

A proper headphone mod should included the interruption of the built-in speaker when a plug is inserted, and the normal functionality when plug isn't inserted (in my opinion...) I am confident I could do a quick and dirty "replace built-in spk with mono headphone jack" mod, but I have no clue how to do the interruption bit...

this is how a stereo phone jack is wired: a mono phone jack will not have the ring when adding a phone jack to the camcorder. you should only need to open the hot side of the speaker. attach the hot side to pin 3 of the phone jack, attach pin 2 to the hot side of the speaker. attach pin 1 to the ground plain of the camcorder pcb. once installed you should hear sound out of the speaker until you plug your headphones in.

Could you be more specific, IE which color wire (red, green) goes where?

for the camcorder, you will have to add your own wires, speaker is mounted on the pcb.

No its not, there are 2 wires coming from it, red and green.

As for the tripod mount, I just cut a hexagonal hole in the bottom, put a nut in the hole, and secured it with hot glue.

Using the above jack picture as a reference, you would have to cut the red or green wires in half, not both ( or better yet unsolder from one end and add another length of wire the same color to the holes where you just unsoldered...... anyway choose left or right (doesn't matter since its mono), the wire going to the circuit board is source, the wire going to the speaker is speaker (if you choose left, use left source and left speaker, same for right). This makes a closed ciruit when no headphone is plugged in and your speaker will work. With headphone plugged in, the headphone completes the circuit and cuts off the speaker. It would be a good idea to use a stereo to mono adapter when using headphones or you will only get one earpiece....or use an earplug. Clear as mud????

Clipped my speaker wires in half on my dev camera today, in anticipation of eventually doing the headphone mod. Ahhh, sweet silence. Someone with a better clue than me want to suggest appropriate resistive values (or cautions) for a passive shunt-to-ground type volume control? I understand the basic idea, but am clueless if the added impedance/resistance will distort output, etc.

Bill W. Any reason why you want shunt to ground? If you are using the onboard amplifier, you just need to connect center terminal with either left or right terminal (assuming a 3 terminal pot), this effectively makes it a resistor. This should be used in series with the speaker. 1K probably is enough. A shunt to ground will change your impedance but more importantly it will use more juice, as you are turning down the volume, you are shorting out the amplifier output. Won't cause distortion but may hurt the amplifier chip. star882 True enough, just trying to keep installation simple. To get away from the adapter, just connect right source to left source, and right speaker to left speaker.

DC, no real reason to choose shunt to ground, other than reading elsewhere that it had better characteristics with cheap pots. Avoiding killing the output amp is much more important though - I'll give the 1K pot in series a whirl. Thanks for the advice!

has anyone with a good scope looked at those two wires? I used a cheap radio shack volt meter & there apears to be -43mv to ground on ether/both wires with sound out of speak. Both wires read about 14meg olms to ground when powered down, it doesn't look like an audio signal in ether analog or digital format. you could try unsoldering the red wire from the pcb, attach it to pin 2, then run a wire from pin 3 to the pcb inplace of the red one, then attach a wire to pin 1 and solder it to the other wire at the pcb (second wire should be left as is) the second wire on my B3 is blue, not green :wink: for mono always use the left channel of a stereo jack. that way a mono or stereo headset will work.