Lense relocation

Lense relocation
Can the lense be removed from the board and positioned at a different angle? I'm working on an R/C helicopter application and having the lense positioned at a right angle from the circuit board would be a big help. Thanks...

if you just move the lens, without taking the Imager chip off too, you'd have to use some kind of Prism system setup... and taking the Imager chip off is a pain... it's BALL GRID soldered on.

Can you glue a mirror on the camera at a 45 deg. angle?

i was gonna build a mirror box to make a 3d cam anyway. 2 diferent mirrors intersect the midle of the pic at 45 deg and out 90 degrees to each side then 2 more set a few inches out (standard eye distance) to face forward so 2 different views from one cam. no need to resync 2 diferent cams. just need to chop the video in half so its reduced resolution... maybe if i split it horizontaly it would be widescreen....

yeah ... i think this should work then ... post a how to when you finish it... I may do the same 3D thingie too... :D

This is my first post. (Added duplicate post here, too) Thanks to all who have posted "how-to's" on this site! I never would have dreamed of being able to do any of this. So I thought I would give a little back to the community. Thanks. AERO104. Here's how to make a remote lens cable for the CVS video camera: 1. Find dead camera(I used my first hacked camera; I carefully let the smoke out first) 2. Buy some "30 gauge insulated wrapping wire" radioshack# 278-501 3. CUT around connectors on board (I used wire cutters) 4. SAND board off the back of the connector. (don't even think of trying to de-solder this connector) be very gentle, connector legs are very small. 5. Repeat for other connector. The next steps require a lot of patience! (i used 35watt std iron and tip, alligator clip stand, extra fine solder, and a digital ohm meter). I also plugged male and female connectors together in mirror image to keep from mixing up wires. 6. Lightly tin each of the 22pins on each connector (very, very light) 7. Lightly tin the insulated wrapping wire (longest so far is 4") 8. Do not use any more solder, clean tip, then heat wire to pin. 9. Repeat 43 more times. 10. Test ohms to look for shorts or opens. (check pin where you soldered to same position on other connector. Also check pins next to them for shorts) 11. plug and play. Notes: a. I tried a 5 foot cable to start with. Too much static and interference. b. My wires are close to same length but not exact. c. You will see red heatshrink in pictures, that was from cutting 5 foot cable down to about 4 inches. Good luck! I hope this helps some. AERO104.

<a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=2/5111571842.gif&s=x11' target='_blank'><img src='http://x11.putfile.com/2/5111571842-thumb.gif' alt='Click to enlarge.'></a> Hosted by Putfile.com

Click below for sample video from this camera: <a href='http://media.putfile.com/cvs-sample-video' target='_blank'>Click here to watch 'cvs-sample-video'</a>

very nice, good to see some people are still pushing it to see what unintended uses these things still have in them. you mentioned you had to shorten the cable, did the video still come through, just not satisfyingly clear, or was it too far gone and no video could be seen?

Aha, I thought that craftsmanship looked familiar. It's the guy who makes the RC Airplane kits! :-D Nice hack, excellent tutorial.

The original cable had some video and lots of static. After a few seconds, it would shut camera down. It may have been caused by a short with other wires. Originally, I did not ohm out the wires. So... Longer cables may be feasable?? I would like to do some more experiments, but can't find those weird 22pin connectors. Molex, amp/tyco, and digikey connectors don't fit. Anybody want to donate connectors from bricked cameras, send me a message. I'll pay shipping and some extra??

Excellent tutorial. Very helpful. I have begun to make my own cable with a couple differences: one I used 28 gauge stranded wire, and I used ribbon cable to make things a bit neater. I lost some of the flexibility, but I think it should work. Another change I have made so far is to put a nice-sized epoxy blob at the base of the connector to help protect the small joints and to make it harder for the joints to break or be pulled loose. I must say that this has almost made me go cross-eyed and I'm only done with one connector, but thanks to youthful eyes, my eyes relax quickly. I plan to mount the camera in a rocket and launch it, hopefully yielding some cool videos. I'll try to get a pic of the finished cable posted on here. Reed

Heh, so I just realized that the ribbon cable offers no verticle movement... It had just slipped my mind. Looks like I'll be getting some of the wrapping wire when I get some cash. Unfortunately i have a beautiful epoxy blob on one of the connectors. That'll be fun to remove... Aero104, could you post a pic of the connector with the place where you soldered the wires onto the pins in focus so I can see the details. I am pretty sure what you're doing, but I would like to be sure. Reed

Thanks for all the interest! :-) I guess i could have posted that I also tried several types of wire. The best wire seems to be wrapping wire. Here is a link for more pics: http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/6700203021.jpg&s=x10 http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/6700194758.jpg&s=x10 http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/6700190943.jpg&s=x10 all my pics are at: http://www.putfile.com/aero104

images of above links:

http://media.putfile.com/Priest_Lake_Slopin

I would avoid wire wrap wire. It tends to make very fragile joints. Very small stranded wire would be much better... but I bet you can't find anything suitible.

I also tried removing the twisted pairs from phone cord. Good quality, low resistance wire but it took too long to remove from plastic cover. The ones I found were multistrand. Or maybe the wire from ethernet cables?

View Full Version: Lense relocation