Proof that PV2s use Autobrite!

Proof that PV2s use Autobrite!
Proof that PV2s use Autobrite! http://rayfraser.googlepages.com/lightbulb_2.jpg http://rayfraser.googlepages.com/lightbulb_1.jpg Can you see the band of rows created by the high intensity light? (if not you may need a better monitor - I think my old monitor may have been why I never noticed banding before) After rereading the Autobrite patent it appears to operate at the row level: http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1&Sect2=HITOFF&d=PALL&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsrchnum.htm&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1=6,600,471.PN.&OS=PN/6,600,471&RS=PN/6,600,471 Perhaps SMaL never implemented the pixel by pixel patent application which surprisingly has not yet been granted: http://appft1.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1&Sect2=HITOFF&d=PG01&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsrchnum.html&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1=%2220020105581%22.PGNR.&OS=DN/20020105581&RS=DN/20020105581 I need to redo my yardstick measurement on a "brite" Sunny day with the rows aligned perpendicular to the yardstick. I am surprised no one ever noticed the row orientation before. Although for an HDR landscape shot the top is usually bright and the bottom dark (minimizing row level impact). forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=2972" target="_blank">http://camerahacks.10.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=2972

Interesting discovery. How about a picture of the same scene but with the camera rotated 90 degrees?

I doubt that rotating would make any difference for a shot with a light bulb in the center. However I expect a 90 degree rotation to further emphasize the difference in my yardstick measurement: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FyFd Those shots were taken with the rows being parallel to yardstick. Limited time offer (expires end of January 2007): A free non strobing (probably can be fixed by repositioning black wire) but otherwise fully functional FF3 to the first member that can demonstrate a clear yardstick Autobrite advantage using a Canon with 4 or more megapixels. The shots must be taken with a PV2 oriented so rows are perpendicular to the yardstick. The advantage must show at least a 2 stop difference similar to the 5 stop difference shown in the above link.

I doubt that rotating would make any difference for a shot with a light bulb in the center. However I expect a 90 degree rotation to further emphasize the difference in my yardstick measurement: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FyFd Those shots were taken with the rows being parallel to yardstick. Limited time offer (expires end of January 2007): A free non strobing (probably can be fixed by repositioning black wire) but otherwise fully functional FF3 to the first member that can demonstrate a clear yardstick Autobrite advantage using a Canon with 4 or more megapixels. The shots must be taken with a PV2 oriented so rows are perpendicular to the yardstick. The advantage must show at least a 2 stop difference similar to the 5 stop difference shown in the above link. I dont understand your challenge? i have several canon cameras i would like to dig into the inner workings or the software side of them but im not into this stuff enough to really understand what your wanting done. If i just shoot a lightbulb with a few of my canon cameras and zoom in digitaly could you tell? what exactly do i need to do? Shoot at a high ISO with a small F stop? Here is some of the junk i have.

The comparison should attempt to bracket a single Autobrite shot from a PV2 (or FF3, but I believe PV2s have higher dynamic range). You may need to take several shots to obtain the grea-*test*-('") Autobrite HDR varying the distance from a light bulb. Closeups will probably be better but will also require manual focus. Once you have a shot that shows good detail behind the bulb then you will want to attempt a similar shot showing the same background detail level with another camera. Do not crop - only resize for comparison. If you obtained good HDR with the Autobrite camera then the other camera's shot will have a clearly blown bulb with much less detail of the bulb. Next you need to manually adjust the other cameras shutter counting stops keeping the same aperture until you get a bulb similar to Autobrite shot. I suggest using one of the curled fluorescent bulbs. To be fair, post processing for both cameras should use the same gamma curve. A scientific approach will take alot of time and patience.

A510 i just fixed tonight. Is this what your lookign for?

Left is flash on, right is flash off.

No. I am looking for 3 pictures - all with flash off. First one should be using Autobrite (PV2 or FF). The next two should be from a camera made by a leading manufacturer using manual shutter control to bracket the first shot. The goal is to show how many more stops Autobrite covers in a single shot: Note that in the following side by sides the last shot (Autobrite) allows reading yardstick in both Sun and Shade; indicating a 5 stop advantage over my sprint phone. < http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FyFd > My final goal is a more scientific comparison using a high end Canon model and analyzing individual pixel values in raw mode. It may be difficult to show with a bulb shot since the cheap SMaL cameras perform poorly in low light conditions. I think a shiny steel yardstick with half in bright Sun and half in dark shade may best demonstrate extended range provided by varying pixel voltages using Keith Fife's patent.

Here is a 1.3mp keychain camera

It actualy gives the exif data

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