Reverting the camera back to a locked state.
Sound strange. but here it goes. OK. Today is Friday. I already had two PV2s. One of which was a 6520 out of the box, one was a 6550 in which the battery drop worked to corrupt the flash and go into bootloader mode. I picked one up from CVS on the way home from work, you know, as a friday project. I figured it would be easy. I'm glad I bought this one just for a challenge, because it WAS! This particular one I just bought was a 6550 firmware, still the same 06/2b/2b as the other cameras. But this one, I must have tried a battery drop maybe 40 times. It simply would not corrupt the flash like my last one. So, I tried the advice in this thread - The Hardware Method. Shorting pins 6 and 7 (from the bottom up) with a very thin wire - this was not easy - I had to find a piece of stranded wire, strip the insulation, then break off one single strand. And making that stick at an angle to short the pins, that was tough. There is one thing I want to say regarding this method, when they say short pins 6 and 7, with the 1st pin being on the bottom-right of the chip (which in mine was a samsung), the chip in mine was mounted upside-down. So you have to orient the flash chip so the text printed on the chip is right-side up, where you can read it. Not where the camera is right-side up (and hence the text is upside down). I also want to note that at first, I didnt know if I was doing it right, even though i got three beeps, and I tried the other way around, shorting the other side, between 6 and 7, and I got a HUGE JOLT FROM THE CAPACITOR. This was not pleasant. Please, please, please, be super careful with these things. I would HIGHLY suggest discharging the capacitor with a resistor on highly insulated leads. Wear thick rubber gloves too. When this happened to me, it hurt like a banshee, but thankfully it wasnt that bad, because I have been repairing CRT monitors for a long time, and I have learned one lesson that is a LIFESAVER: When working with high voltage, wear thick rubber shoes, do not have any part of your body touching anything else, and ALWAYS STICK ONE HAND IN YOUR BACK POCKET. This prevents any current from passing from one hand to the other (and through your heart). Anyway. Sorry for the dialogue. I want to get to my point. This was a pain to unlock. and I don't remember precisely how I did it. Does anybody know if its possible to reflash this device back to a locked state, so I can do this all over again? I want to document exactly how I did this. Thanks in advance.
Sound strange. but here it goes. OK. Today is Friday. I already had two PV2s. One of which was a 6520 out of the box, one was a 6550 in which the battery drop worked to corrupt the flash and go into bootloader mode. I picked one up from CVS on the way home from work, you know, as a friday project. I figured it would be easy. I'm glad I bought this one just for a challenge, because it WAS! This particular one I just bought was a 6550 firmware, still the same 06/2b/2b as the other cameras. But this one, I must have tried a battery drop maybe 40 times. It simply would not corrupt the flash like my last one. So, I tried the advice in this thread - The Hardware Method. Shorting pins 6 and 7 (from the bottom up) with a very thin wire - this was not easy - I had to find a piece of stranded wire, strip the insulation, then break off one single strand. And making that stick at an angle to short the pins, that was tough. There is one thing I want to say regarding this method, when they say short pins 6 and 7, with the 1st pin being on the bottom-right of the chip (which in mine was a samsung), the chip in mine was mounted upside-down. So you have to orient the flash chip so the text printed on the chip is right-side up, where you can read it. Not where the camera is right-side up (and hence the text is upside down). I also want to note that at first, I didnt know if I was doing it right, even though i got three beeps, and I tried the other way around, shorting the other side, between 6 and 7, and I got a HUGE JOLT FROM THE CAPACITOR. This was not pleasant. Please, please, please, be super careful with these things. I would HIGHLY suggest discharging the capacitor with a resistor on highly insulated leads. Wear thick rubber gloves too. When this happened to me, it hurt like a banshee, but thankfully it wasnt that bad, because I have been repairing CRT monitors for a long time, and I have learned one lesson that is a LIFESAVER: When working with high voltage, wear thick rubber shoes, do not have any part of your body touching anything else, and ALWAYS STICK ONE HAND IN YOUR BACK POCKET. This prevents any current from passing from one hand to the other (and through your heart). Anyway. Sorry for the dialogue. I want to get to my point. This was a pain to unlock. and I don't remember precisely how I did it. Does anybody know if its possible to reflash this device back to a locked state, so I can do this all over again? I want to document exactly how I did this. Thanks in advance.